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Thursday, February 4, 2010

21 October 2009 - Emotionally Spellbound Within Ancient History: The Spectacular Colosseum

I was feeling a lot better as the nausea that always accompanied me for a couple of hours after breakfast had finally gone away so we decided to hop off the bus and wander around the grounds of the Colosseum which was built in 80AD. When we first arrived we stood in awe at the size of this immense amphitheatre. On the bus it had looked huge, but once we were standing in its shadow we were awestruck at just how massive it was, as well as the amazing condition it was still in after so many years of earthquakes and pillaging before the Catholic Church declared it was to be preserved.
One of the Gladiators encouraging visitors to take one of the many tours of Colosseum
Looking across from the Colosseum to the imposing Baths of Titus, part of the Roman Forum - they were in incredible condition considering they were built in 80AD
What used to be one of the main corridors leading to a ruined stairway in the Colosseum. It now holds the remains of some of the Doric Columns which once graced this amazing building.
Looking through one of the underground elephant chambers in the Colosseum
Stunning arches of the Colosseum - the walls of this amazing place literally towered over us and were in amazing condition considering they were nearly 2000 years old!
The spectacular Arch of Constantine - located just outside the Colosseum
Each angle you looked at the Colosseum was impressive - huge, towering walls and massive archways which dwarfed everything around them. If you look closely in the photo below you can see someone standing on top of the bottom archway on the left - they were so tiny compared to the arches themselves.
After finding out that the price of a ticket to do a tour was actually cheaper than the one we had been going to do earlier in the day we decided it was too good an opportunity to miss, especially as Helen, a friend of ours, had recommended it as one of the best things to do in Rome. So we paid our money and joined one of the many Colosseum tours. Looking back, I am so glad we did as we had no idea of the immensity of this building until we were standing inside looking down on to the amphitheatre itself and seeing how many and how big the underground chambers which housed the captives, Gladiators and animals really are.
Outside the Colosseum there are scores of Gladiators entertaining the visitors, as well as expecting payment if you have your photo taken with them if you aren't part of an official tour! This one was actually part of our tour and so payment wasn't necessary!
"Caesar" surveying the "little people" before we entered the arena of the Colosseum
"Fierce" Gladiator on our Colosseum Tour - he was part of the show and talk put on before we entered the actual Colosseum. I became quite sad listening to the stories of the martyrs, Gladiators and animals who had died in this place. Even though it was fascinating, it was also sobering to realise we were now the spectators being "entertained" in the place of their death.
Tattoo on the leg of one of the Gladiators on our tour - "Usque Ad Finem" in Latin meaning "To the Very End"
Looking up to the magnificent structure of the Colosseum - even in ruins it was still impressive so we could only imagine how powerful and intimidating it must have looked in its heyday
The other Gladiator, who was part of our tour, taken with me outside one of 80 of the huge barred gates which gave entry to the Colosseum
A replica of a Gladiator shield
The Gladiatorial displays, which had been part of the Roman culture since 264 BC were banned in 438 AD. Gladiators were expected to fight to the death and before each performance they would salute the Emperor with the famous saying, "Caesar, those who are about to die salute you!" The last animal show was held in 523 AD when the Roman Empire had all but collapsed.
The vast circular corridor that completely surrounds the interior of the Colosseum, where thousands of spectators would line up to gain entry to the amphitheatre
One of hundreds of huge archways leading to the corridor where the animals were housed in the Colosseum
Steve, from the perspective of one of the thousands of slaves and Christian martyrs who had gazed out of these bars to the freedom waiting just outside these walls before meeting their death in the arena above. What would have added to their misery is hearing the roar of the lions in the cages just near where they were housed in the Colosseum.
Ancient broken columns from the Colosseum - even lying in ruins there was still a stateliness about them!
Entering the underground chambers beneath the arena of the Colosseum - the ceilings were so high and corridors went off in all directions - this was one of the original gates where the gladiators and animals entered their underground chambers
Entering the arena after scaling the very steep staircases inside this amazing structure - the vastness of it was astounding
One of the many deep chambers that surrounded the lower gallery of the Colosseum - this was actually about 10 metres high and about 5 metres deep with concave walls
The upper galleries of the Colosseum, where the poorer classes watched the "action" below
According to the Codex-Calendar of 354, the Colosseum could accommodation 87,000 people, although modern estimates put the figure at around 50,000. It is 189 metres long and 156 metres wide, with a base area of 6 acres, while the height of the outer wall is 48 metres. There were actually 15 levels when it was intact and was ringed by 80 entrances at ground level with 76 for use by the ordinary spectactors.
Our first glimpse inside this mighty arena was awe inspiring. Photos cannot portray the size or "power" of this amphitheatre, nor the atmosphere that each of us felt as we looked out over where so much death and carnage had occurred. Gladiators - prisoners of war, slaves, criminals or volunteers - and Christian martyrs were pitted against each other or animals, including elephants, giraffes, hippopotomii, rhinoceros, panthers, leopards, crocodiles, ostriches and bears, as well as lions and tigers, and forced to give their lives to "entertain" the crowds. To get a true perspective of the size of the Colosseum click on this photo to enlarge it - you can see several large groups of people in individual tours around the various levels.
Immense underground corridors surrounding the inner arena, where the animals and gladiators were led to their cages to await their turn in the arena. You can get a small idea of the size of the Colosseum by the people in the actual arena and also the man walking in the corridor.
What is now the stage area of the Colosseum where Il Divo and other famous artists have performed in recent years, this area was once the entrance where the Emperor and the Vestal Virgins would enter and watch the "entertainment". Spectators were seated in a tiered arrangement where the higher your class in society, the closer you were to the arena.
The arena and hypogeum (underground chambers) of the Colosseum. Originally covered by a sandy wooden floor which has disintegrated over the years, it is now possible to look into the huge caverns and chambers below the surface to where the gladiators, Christian martyrs and animals were housed while they awaited their fate.
Large hinged platforms, called hegmata, provided access for elephants and other large animals, which were housed in these huge underground chambers of the Colosseum
The upper public galleries were for the for poorer classes, while the women, slaves and common poor were in the highest level where it was standing room only, making it harder to see the action.
Impressive detail in the archway of the Colosseum - just how old are those stones? Individual chambers of the Colosseum, as well as one of 80 of the entrances to the amphitheatre Gladiator and animal pits in the hypogeum - a two level subterranean network of tunnels and cages beneath the arena. Eighty vertical shafts provided instant access to the arena for the caged animals. They have found evidence that hydraulic elevators and pulleys raised and lowered the caged animals to the surface for release.
The Emperor's Royal Chambers in the Colosseum
Looking down into the massive chambers in the lower level of the Colosseum
One of scores of steep stairways leading up to the upper galleries of the Colosseum, where the women and lower classes would view the "entertainment". Each individual stair was approximately one and a half times the height of a normal one and we had to climb four sets of these to get to the top galleries. Due to my meds I suffered terrible heart palpitations when I reached the top and had to rest for about 5 minutes before proceeding with the rest of the tour. Thank the Lord I came good and was able to enjoy the rest of the tour. Looking through one of the massive archways of the Colosseum to the Roman Forum on Palatine Hill Map of the Colosseum
Palatine Hill and Roman Forum from the arches of the Colosseum
Ancient walls with the appearance of eye sockets - The Colosseum
From the Colosseum looking across Palatine Hill to the skyline of Rome The Arch of Constantine - a triumphal arch situated between the Colosseum and the Palatine Hill to commemorate Constantine I's victory over Maxentius on October 28 312. It is 21 metres high, 25.7 metres wide and 6.5 metres wide and quite spectacular!
Looking from the Colosseum across to Palatine Hill, where the Roman Forum is situated
Ruins of the original training barracks of the gladiators
Latin Sign for the Colosseum - whose correct name is the Flavian Ampitheatre - was inaugurated in 80 AD
After years of civil war the victory of Constantine's army over the superior army of Maxentius at the Battle of Milvial Bridge in 312 brought some peace to the Roman Empire. To commemorate this victory the Roman Senate awarded Constantine a Triumphal Arch. Constantine believed that his improbable win was the result of help from the Christian God. As a result, persecution of Christians ended and Christianity became the official religion in the Roman Empire.
The Arch of Contantine - built in 315
The latrine drain for the gladiators at the Colosseum! Apparently they had to use them regularly before their turn to fight came!
One of 80 massive entrances to the main arena of the Colosseum
The ancient flagstones of the Colosseum
A Memorial Cross was erected in honour of the Christian Martyrs who were put to death here. Now the Pope celebrates the Stations of the Cross every Good Friday in the arena of the Colosseum.
Just as the Christian Martyr Memorial Cross was being explained to us a cat emerged from the lion entrance in the depths of the Colosseum - perfect timing but not quite the menacing "cat" that this place had witnessed emerging from the same spot in the past! You can see it in the photo below, just to the bottom right of the cross. Exposed chambers and public gallery of the Colosseum Steve with the Christian Martyr Memorial Cross in the background of the Colosseum
Where the floor has disintegrated and now exposes the original gladiator and animal cells of the Colosseum
The magnificent amphitheatre against a clear blue sky
From the original ground level of the Colosseum looking up to the public galleries - the floor has since disintegrated as it was originally made of wood covered with sand, which means you can clearly see into the underground cells or the Hypogeum. Ruined walls of the Colossum Sunlight peeping through the Colosseum arches
Rows of Chambers in the Colosseum
Gazing into the gladiator and animal enclosures below ground in the Colosseum
Ancient stones in the Colosseum walls - if only these walls could talk! The stage area, underground cells and amphitheatre of the Colosseum Gladiator and Christian martyr cells in the Colosseum
Steve beside a broken plinth in the Colosseum. I wonder how many years old it is?
The remains of massive animal cages, which housed elephants and giraffes, in the Colosseum
Huge arches grace the entrance to the Colosseum
After touring this incredible place I purchased some Roman scarves for gifts and then we enjoyed lunch under the trees outside, while still marveling at actually having visited the Colosseum.
I couldn't get over how old these cobblestones must have been and how many gladiators and Christians had walked, often to their deaths, over them!
And then I gazed on this amazing structure for one last time -even in ruins it was astounding!
"But when the rising moon begins to climb Its topmost arch, and gently pauses there; When the stars twinkle through the loops of time, And the low night-breeze waves along the air - The garland-forest, which the gray walls wear, Like laurels on the bald first Caesar's head; When the light shines serene but doth not glare, Then in this magic circle raise the dead: Heroes have trod this spot - 'tis on their dust ye tread." Lord Byron, English poet - 1818
Just before we left the Colosseum area we had one last close up look at the Arch of Constantine - built in 315.
The detail, even inside the arches was so intricate and beautiful.
It had been a truly memorable morning and one I will never forget. I am so glad we were able to tour this amazing ancient building.

2 comments:

  1. If you are still out there Jeni, thank you for the wonderful photo's of the Colosseum. My family and I visited Italy in April/May 2013 and it was every bit as magnificent as you say. How did they build that sort of stuff back then?? Truly awesome and a trip I will nver forget.
    Cheers, Anita.

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    1. Hi Anita
      Thank you so much for your comment on my blog post about the Colosseum. It's wonderful to know that someone has seen my reminiscing and can identify with it so much.
      Such a spectacular place and, like you, I marvel at the workmanship and scale of the place. Imagine what it looked like in its heyday if it's this spectacular in ruins!
      Hopefully you'll get to visit it again one day.
      Take care and happy travels ... Jeni

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